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2015 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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2015 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location Central Saanich, Canada

Toronto, Canada
Vail, United States
Chongqing, China
Haiyang, China
Chamonix, France
Briançon, France
Imst, Austria
Munich, Germany
Stavanger, Norway
Puurs, Belgium
Wujiang, China

Kranj, Slovenia
Date17 May – 15 November 2015
Champions
Men(B) South Korea Jongwon Chon

(L) Czech Republic Adam Ondra
(S) China Zhong Qixin

(C) Czech Republic Adam Ondra
Women(B) Japan Akiyo Noguchi

(L) Slovenia Mina Markovič
(S) Russia Mariia Krasavina

(C) South Korea Jain Kim
← 2014
2016 →

The 2015 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 13 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 5 locations, lead in 7 locations, and speed in 5 locations. The season began on 17 May in Central Saanich, Canada and concluded on 15 November in Kranj, Slovenia.

The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

The winners for bouldering were Jongwon Chon and Akiyo Noguchi, for lead Adam Ondra and Mina Markovič, and for speed Zhong Qixin and Mariia Krasavina, men and women respectively.

Highlights of the season

[edit]

In bouldering, at the World Cup in Munich, Shauna Coxsey of United Kingdom flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win.

In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia, after just turned 16 years old (the minimum age to compete in the World Cup), made her debut in the World Cup circuit by competing in lead climbing in Chamonix, France. She competed in 3 out of 7 Lead World Cups in the season and was in the top three in all competitions she attended, which made her 7th in the overall ranking in lead discipline.

In speed climbing, at the World Cup in Central Saanich, Iuliia Kaplina of Russia set a new world record of 7.74s in the semifinal round, breaking her previous world record of 7.85s which she set at the 2013 Speed World Cup in Wujiang.[1] Then, at the World Cup in Chongqing, Iuliia Kaplina, again, set a new world record of 7.56s during qualifications, breaking her previous world record which she had set in Saanich (CAN), by as much as 0.18 seconds.[2] Then at the World Cup in Chamonix, Iuliia Kaplina, again, set a new world record of 7.53s in the semifinal against her teammate Anna Tsyganova, breaking her previous world record by 0.03s.[3]

France was the only nation in the top three National Team Ranking in all disciplines.

Overview

[edit]

[4][5]

No. Location D G Gold Silver Bronze
1 Canada Central Saanich
(17 May 2015)
S M China Zhong Qixin
6.260
Poland Marcin Dzieński
7.010
France Bassa Mawem
6.050
W Russia Iuliia Kaplina
7.820
Russia Mariia Krasavina
8.710
Russia Anna Tsyganova
8.040
2 Canada Toronto
(30–31 May 2015)
B M France Alban Levier
3t6 4b5
United States Nathaniel Coleman
3t9 4b8
Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2t3 3b3
W Austria Anna Stöhr
3t6 4b5
Japan Akiyo Noguchi
3t7 4b7
Germany Juliane Wurm
2t2 4b5
3 United States Vail
(5–6 June 2015)
B M Germany Jan Hojer
3t4 4b4
United States Nathaniel Coleman
3t4 4b6
Czech Republic Adam Ondra
3t12 4b12
W United States Megan Mascarenas
3t4 4b5
Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2t4 3b6
United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey
2t4 3b7
4 China Chongqing
(20–21 June 2015)
B M Canada Sean McColl
4t12 4b9
South Korea Jongwon Chon
3t5 3b3
Japan Tsukuru Hori
3t8 3b8
W Japan Akiyo Noguchi
4t5 4b5
Japan Miho Nonaka
3t5 4b4
United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey
3t6 3b5
S M China Zhong Qixin
5.810
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev
6.560
Czech Republic Libor Hroza
5.850
W Russia Mariia Krasavina
7.920
Poland Edyta Ropek
8.160
Russia Iuliia Kaplina
8.030
5 China Haiyang
(26–27 June 2015)
B M South Korea Jongwon Chon
2t3 2b2
Russia Rustam Gelmanov
2t7 2b6
France Alban Levier
1t1 2b2
W Switzerland Petra Klingler
3t3 4b10
Japan Akiyo Noguchi
3t4 4b5
United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey
3t84 b9
S M China Zhong Qixin
5.790
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev
6.720
Iran Reza Alipour
6.020
W France Anouck Jaubert
7.900
Russia Anna Tsyganova
8.180
Russia Iuliia Kaplina
7.710
6 France Chamonix
(10–12 July 2015)
L M Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué
53+
Czech Republic Adam Ondra
52+
Germany Sebastian Halenke
52
W Slovenia Mina Markovič
Top
Slovenia Janja Garnbret
Top
Austria Jessica Pilz
47
S M Czech Republic Libor Hroza
wild card
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev
false start
China Zhong Qixin
5.950
W France Anouck Jaubert
7.810
Russia Iuliia Kaplina
false start
Russia Mariia Krasavina
8.030
7 France Briançon
(17–18 July 2015)
L M France Gautier Supper
49+
Japan Minoru Nakano
43+
Austria Jakob Schubert
42+
W South Korea Jain Kim
47+
Austria Jessica Pilz
47+
Belgium Anak Verhoeven
46+
8 Austria Imst
(31 July – 1 August 2015)
L M France Romain Desgranges
57+
Austria Jakob Schubert
57
Slovenia Domen Škofic
51+
W Slovenia Mina Markovič
55
Slovenia Janja Garnbret
54+
Austria Jessica Pilz
52+
9 Germany Munich
(14–15 August 2015)
B M Russia Alexey Rubtsov
2t11 4b12
Czech Republic Martin Stráník
1t1 3b4
South Korea Jongwon Chon
1t1 3b5
W United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey
4t4 4b4
France Fanny Gibert
3t3 4b7
United States Megan Mascarenas
3t4 4b5
10 Norway Stavanger
(21–22 August 2015)
L M France Gautier Supper
43+
Czech Republic Adam Ondra
40+
France Romain Desgranges
39+
W Slovenia Mina Markovič
57+
Austria Jessica Pilz
57+
Belgium Anak Verhoeven
55+
11 Belgium Puurs
(26–27 September 2015)
L M Slovenia Domen Škofic
Top
Austria Jakob Schubert
50+
Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué
49+
W South Korea Jain Kim
Top
Slovenia Mina Markovič
Top
Belgium Anak Verhoeven
48+
12 China Wujiang
(17–18 October 2015)
L M Czech Republic Adam Ondra
35
Slovenia Domen Škofic
31
Canada Sean McColl
28+
W South Korea Jain Kim
40+
Belgium Anak Verhoeven
34
Austria Jessica Pilz
33+
S M Iran Reza Alipour
6.060
Czech Republic Libor Hroza
fall
France Bassa Mawem
7.490
W Russia Mariia Krasavina
7.860
France Anouck Jaubert
8.120
Poland Edyta Ropek
12.310
13 Slovenia Kranj
(14–15 November 2015)
L M Czech Republic Adam Ondra
37+
Canada Sean McColl
37
Austria Jakob Schubert
36+
W Slovenia Mina Markovič
35+
Austria Jessica Pilz
35+
Slovenia Janja Garnbret
34+
OVERALL B M South Korea Jongwon Chon
292.00
Germany Jan Hojer
264.00
Czech Republic Adam Ondra
259.00
W Japan Akiyo Noguchi
395.00
United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey
332.00
Japan Miho Nonaka
276.00
L M Czech Republic Adam Ondra
458.00
France Gautier Supper
400.00
Austria Jakob Schubert
396.00
W Slovenia Mina Markovič
527.00
South Korea Jain Kim
461.00
Austria Jessica Pilz
435.00
S M China Zhong Qixin
405.00
Czech Republic Libor Hroza
322.00
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev
295.00
W Russia Mariia Krasavina
400.00
France Anouck Jaubert
390.00
Russia Iuliia Kaplina
365.00
C M Czech Republic Adam Ondra
674.00
Canada Sean McColl
486.00
Slovenia Domen Škofic
407.00
W South Korea Jain Kim
432.00
Japan Akiyo Noguchi
421.00
Japan Yuka Kobayashi
286.00
NATIONAL TEAMS B A  Japan
1352
 France
855
 United States
670
L A  France
1635
Slovenia Slovenia
1457
Austria Austria
1400
S A Russia Russian Federation
1614
Poland Poland
1188
 France
1007

Bouldering

[edit]

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

[edit]

5 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets).[6]

Rank Name Points Munich Haiyang Chongqing Vail Toronto
1 South Korea Jongwon Chon 292.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 - 6. 47.00
2 Germany Jan Hojer 264.00 5. 51.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 1. 100.00 27. 3.00
3 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 259.00 8. 38.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00
4 United States Nathaniel Coleman 238.00 11. 31.00 11. 31.00 18. 16.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00
5 France Alban Levier 202.00 29. 1.00 3. 65.00 14. 24.00 20. 12.00 1. 100.00
6 Russia Rustam Gelmanov 179.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 7. 43.00 21. 9.00 -
7 Japan Kokoro Fujii 173.00 27. 3.00 9. 37.00 11. 31.00 6. 47.00 4. 55.00
8 Canada Sean McColl 169.00 - - 1. 100.00 5. 51.00 17. 18.00
9 Japan Rei Sugimoto 151.00 8. 38.00 15. 22.00 9. 37.00 8. 40.00 19. 14.00
10 France Jeremy Bonder 146.00 - 14. 24.00 5. 51.00 12. 28.00 7. 43.00

Women

[edit]

5 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets).[7]

Rank Name Points Munich Haiyang Chongqing Vail Toronto
1 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 395.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00
2 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 332.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 9. 37.00
3 Japan Miho Nonaka 276.00 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00
4 Switzerland Petra Klingler 224.00 18. 16.00 1. 100.00 10. 34.00 7. 43.00 11. 31.00
5 United States Megan Mascarenas 165.00 3. 65.00 - - 1. 100.00 -
6 Austria Katharina Saurwein 163.00 - 5. 51.00 9. 37.00 14. 24.00 5. 51.00
7 South Korea Sol Sa 158.00 8. 40.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 20. 12.00 18. 16.00
8 France Fanny Gibert 151.00 2. 80.00 - - 11. 31.00 8. 40.00
8 Austria Anna Stöhr 151.00 - - - 5. 51.00 1. 100.00
10 France Mélissa Le Nevé 150.00 - 6. 47.00 8. 40.00 18. 16.00 6. 47.00

National Teams

[edit]

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[8]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Munich Haiyang Chongqing Vail Toronto
1 Japan 1352 172 299 368 285 228
2  France 855 109 170 127 142 307
3  United States 670 104 49 25 303 189
4 Germany Germany 567 138 68 106 147 108
5 Austria Austria 542 64 82 63 131 202
6 South Korea Republic of Korea 511 105 169 162 12 63
7 United Kingdom Great Britain 433 121 102 74 83 53
7 Russia Russian Federation 433 184 108 77 64 -
9 Czech Republic Czech Republic 365 121 51 40 85 68
10 Slovenia Slovenia 329 99 37 27 74 92

Lead

[edit]

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

[edit]

6 best competition results were counted (not counting results in parentheses).[9]

Rank Name Points Kranj Wujiang Puurs Stavanger Imst Briançon Chamonix
1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 458.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 10. (32.00) 2. 80.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 2. 80.00
2 France Gautier Supper 400.00 8. (40.00) 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 1. 100.00 5. 51.00 1. 100.00 5. 51.00
3 Austria Jakob Schubert 396.00 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 2. 80.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 6. (47.00)
4 Slovenia Domen Škofic 376.00 5. 51.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 7. 43.00 3. 65.00 9. 37.00 9. (37.00)
5 France Romain Desgranges 354.00 6. 47.00 12. (28.00) 6. 47.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 8. 40.00 4. 55.00
6 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 335.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 3. 65.00 10. 34.00 13. 26.00 26. (5.00) 1. 100.00
7 Germany Sebastian Halenke 259.00 12. 28.00 6. 47.00 10. 32.00 8. 40.00 6. 47.00 12. (27.00) 3. 65.00
8 Canada Sean McColl 253.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 - 13. 26.00 - 5. 51.00 11. 31.00
9 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 252.00 13. 26.00 26. (5.00) 5. 51.00 5. 51.00 10. 34.00 6. 47.00 7. 43.00
10 Japan Minoru Nakano 240.00 7. 43.00 8. 40.00 14. 24.00 - 11. 31.00 2. 80.00 15. 22.00

Women

[edit]

6 best competition results were counted (not counting results in parentheses).[10]

Rank Name Points Kranj Wujiang Puurs Stavanger Imst Briançon Chamonix
1 Slovenia Mina Markovič 527.00 1. 100.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 8. (40.00) 1. 100.00
2 South Korea Jain Kim 461.00 4. 55.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 12. (28.00) 1. 100.00 5. 51.00
3 Austria Jessica Pilz 435.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 4. (55.00) 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00
4 Belgium Anak Verhoeven 381.00 5. 51.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 8. (40.00) 3. 65.00 4. 55.00
5 France Hélène Janicot 298.00 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 5. 51.00 4. 55.00 11. (31.00) 6. 47.00
6 Japan Yuka Kobayashi 234.00 12. 28.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 8. 40.00 5. 51.00 14. 24.00 15. (22.00)
7 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 225.00 3. 65.00 - - - 2. 80.00 - 2. 80.00
8 Japan Risa Ota 217.00 10. 34.00 10. 32.00 - 7. 43.00 13. 26.00 5. 51.00 11. 31.00
9 Slovenia Tjasa Kalan 207.00 26. (5.00) 14. 24.00 10. 34.00 6. 47.00 6. 47.00 9. 37.00 17. 18.00
10 France Mathilde Becerra 201.00 7. 43.00 - 13. 26.00 9. 37.00 16. 20.00 4. 55.00 16. 20.00

National Teams

[edit]

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in parentheses).[11]

Rank Nation Points Kranj Wujiang Puurs Stavanger Imst Briançon Chamonix
1  France 1635 236 (126) 269 301 302 283 244
2 Slovenia Slovenia 1457 259 (151) 242 221 335 155 245
3 Austria Austria 1400 243 245 252 213 240 207 (153)
4 Japan 1010 188 222 (109) 112 120 203 165
5 Belgium Belgium 573 63 98 111 104 97 100 (62)
6 Italy Italy 556 68 73 125 124 95 71 (49)
7 South Korea Republic of Korea 495 55 100 100 55 (53) 116 69
8 Czech Republic Czech Republic 484 112 106 (32) 85 56 43 82
9 Germany 366 74 57 54 60 56 (51) 65
10 Russia Russian Federation 353 0 - 10 51 36 127 129

Speed

[edit]

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

[edit]

5 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets).[12]

Rank Name Points Wujiang Chamonix Haiyang Chongqing Central Saanich
1 China Zhong Qixin 405.00 8. 40.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00
2 Czech Republic Libor Hroza 322.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 5. 51.00 3. 65.00 13. 26.00
3 Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev 295.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 -
4 Poland Marcin Dzieński 277.00 5. 51.00 4. 55.00 8. 40.00 5. 51.00 2. 80.00
5 France Bassa Mawem 254.00 3. 65.00 15. 22.00 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 3. 65.00
6 Russia Aleksandr Shilov 216.00 6. 47.00 8. 40.00 11. 31.00 6. 47.00 5. 51.00
7 Iran Reza Alipour 208.00 1. 100.00 - 3. 65.00 7. 43.00 -
8 Russia Stanislav Kokorin 169.00 7. 43.00 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 12. 28.00 -
8 France Quentin Nambot 169.00 10. 34.00 10. 34.00 7. 43.00 10. 34.00 14. 24.00
10 Kazakhstan Amir Maimuratov 128.00 - 5. 51.00 9. 37.00 8. 40.00 -

Women

[edit]

5 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets).[13]

Rank Name Points Wujiang Chamonix Haiyang Chongqing Central Saanich
1 Russia Mariia Krasavina 400.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
2 France Anouck Jaubert 390.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00
3 Russia Iuliia Kaplina 365.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00
4 Russia Anna Tsyganova 291.00 8. 40.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 5. 51.00 3. 65.00
5 Poland Edyta Ropek 284.00 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 5. 51.00 2. 80.00 9. 37.00
6 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 239.00 5. 51.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 6. 47.00 5. 51.00
7 Poland Klaudia Buczek 198.00 7. 43.00 9. 37.00 8. 40.00 11. 31.00 6. 47.00
8 Poland Patrycja Chudziak 148.00 - 15. 22.00 7. 43.00 7. 43.00 8. 40.00
9 Ukraine Alla Marenych 131.00 6. 47.00 10. 34.00 12. 28.00 15. 22.00 -
10 Poland Monika Prokopiuk 117.00 - 20. 12.00 9. 37.00 10. 34.00 10. 34.00

National Teams

[edit]

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[14]

Rank Nation Points Wujiang Chamonix Haiyang Chongqing Central Saanich
1 Russia Russian Federation 1614 316 320 314 313 351
2 Poland Poland 1188 232 207 225 259 265
3  France 1007 205 239 210 144 209
4 China People's Republic of China 587 127 65 132 163 100
5 Ukraine Ukraine 490 102 178 108 102 -
6 Kazakhstan Kazakhstan 352 - 51 148 153 -
7 Czech Republic Czech Republic 322 80 100 51 65 26
8 Iran Islamic Republic of Iran 288 128 9 65 43 43
9  Canada 262 14 18 22 38 170
10 Austria Austria 163 71 35 31 26 -

Combined

[edit]

5 best competition results were counted. Participation in at least 2 disciplines was required.

Men

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2015:[15]

Rank Name Points
1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 674.00
2 Canada Sean McColl 486.00
3 Slovenia Domen Škofic 407.00
4 Austria Jakob Schubert 405.00
5 Germany Jan Hojer 295.00
6 Japan Minoru Nakano 279.00
7 China ZiDa Ma 44.00
8 South Korea Sungjoon Chae 35.00
9 Japan Naoto Hakamada 28.00
10 China HaiBin Qu 22.00

Women

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2015:[16]

Rank Name Points
1 South Korea Jain Kim 432.00
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 421.00
3 Japan Yuka Kobayashi 286.00
4 Japan Risa Ota 215.00
5 Japan Aya Onoe 212.00
6 Kazakhstan Tamara Ulzhabayeva 92.00
7 France Charlotte Durif 79.00
8 Japan Aika Tajima 65.00
9 China ZhuoMa PUBU 42.00
10 Norway Tina Johnsen Hafsaas 30.00

References

[edit]
  1. ^ "New Women's World Speed Record and Gold medal to Iuliia Kaplina".
  2. ^ "Speed Climbing World Cup in China".
  3. ^ "Iuliia Kaplina Sets a New Women's World Speed Record".
  4. ^ "2015 World Cups".
  5. ^ "RANKINGS: IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015".
  6. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: M E N bouldering".
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: W O M E N bouldering".
  8. ^ "National Team Ranking IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015 B O U L D E R".
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: M E N lead".
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: W O M E N lead".
  11. ^ "National Team Ranking IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015 L E A D".
  12. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: M E N speed".
  13. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: W O M E N speed".
  14. ^ "National Team Ranking IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015 S P E E D".
  15. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: MEN combined".
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: WOMEN combined".
[edit]